Tuesday, May 02, 2006
The worn parts dilema.
Is my chain worn out? It seems noisy lately and doesn't run well, a sort of undefined unwell. Sometimes it chainsucks, othertimes it sticks in the rear derailluer dragging it dangerously about, and other times it sounds like it's scraping on the front derailluer which it's not. Yes I've adjusted it back and forth and side to side. The chain does look a bit worn, it flexes from side to side easily, and when you flex it hard you can see a fresh dirt area where the side plate has moved away a bit from the inner plate. So I've bought a new chain at Harrys shop. The cluster has a bit of a wobble in it too, maybe I didn't tighten it up enough when I put a new spoke in a few weeks ago. Well I'll look at that when I do the chain. Might also be worth looking at the cables. Usually when I have these problems it's because the cable guides are dry and dirty. I'll have a bit of a cleanup later today and see what happens. I wonder if the cluster is worn? How do you tell?
The handlebars I bought on eBay have arrived so I'll put those on too. After a recent spill I put a higher head stem on to raise my sitting position, trouble is it's taller but shorter, so I'm sitting back a bit too far and I feel like I need to move my seat back but it's already back as far as it'll go. The new bars are Easton Monkey Bars with a 2 inch rise, theyre about an ich wider on each end too which isn't a bad thing. My old bars are titanium, straight with only a very slight sweep back. So I'll put the new bars on with the old stem, which is lighter, being made of titanium. The frame is titanium too so it keeps it all together nicely. I'm thinking about putting a disk brake on the front end too but still not sure at this stage, might be too expensive.
The handlebars I bought on eBay have arrived so I'll put those on too. After a recent spill I put a higher head stem on to raise my sitting position, trouble is it's taller but shorter, so I'm sitting back a bit too far and I feel like I need to move my seat back but it's already back as far as it'll go. The new bars are Easton Monkey Bars with a 2 inch rise, theyre about an ich wider on each end too which isn't a bad thing. My old bars are titanium, straight with only a very slight sweep back. So I'll put the new bars on with the old stem, which is lighter, being made of titanium. The frame is titanium too so it keeps it all together nicely. I'm thinking about putting a disk brake on the front end too but still not sure at this stage, might be too expensive.
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Hey there ... I can't remember if I ever responded and thanked you for your nice comment on my blog ... it's been a while, but thanks!
I was going through things today and saw your comment again and looked at your site. I have a tip that may make a difference with biking. Granted, I am NOT a biker, but from my previous job I heard about a competitive biker who started using a specific lubricant and it worked wonders for him. It's not really available to the public (I know the scientist behind it) ... but there are some types available to dentists through dental suppliers. The one I am familiar with is called Bio Lube and it is AMAZING! It's not a traditional hydrodynamic lubricant. You may be familiar with boundary lubricants, which this is, but the additive is remarkable. It forms a micro-thin polymer layer under friction that repels any kind of accumulation. It outperforms every lubricant it was tested against. The biker in particular who buys this stuff said he kept coming in close to first but couldn't push over the edge ... but after Bio Lube he has been placing first consistently. He e-mailed photos of his chain to show us how the dirt didn't build up, which just blew him away. Anyway ... just a thought! ENJOY!
I was going through things today and saw your comment again and looked at your site. I have a tip that may make a difference with biking. Granted, I am NOT a biker, but from my previous job I heard about a competitive biker who started using a specific lubricant and it worked wonders for him. It's not really available to the public (I know the scientist behind it) ... but there are some types available to dentists through dental suppliers. The one I am familiar with is called Bio Lube and it is AMAZING! It's not a traditional hydrodynamic lubricant. You may be familiar with boundary lubricants, which this is, but the additive is remarkable. It forms a micro-thin polymer layer under friction that repels any kind of accumulation. It outperforms every lubricant it was tested against. The biker in particular who buys this stuff said he kept coming in close to first but couldn't push over the edge ... but after Bio Lube he has been placing first consistently. He e-mailed photos of his chain to show us how the dirt didn't build up, which just blew him away. Anyway ... just a thought! ENJOY!
P.S. It also makes a big difference on the wear and tear. When it is used regularly, the polymer bears the brunt of the wear instead of the metal pieces. Plus the dental formulas have conditioners (for the resin cages in handpieces) that can help any non-metal elements last longer.
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